Mount Douglas

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Mount Douglas
  • Location: Banff National Park (Skoki)
  • Activity: Scrambling
  • Height: 3,235 m (10,614 ft)
  • Elevation Gain: 2,250 m (7,382 ft)
  • Distance: 22.0 km / Round Trip (Bivy to bivy) (13.7 mi)
  • Avg Steepness: 11.6°
  • Estimated Time: 13-16 hrs
  • Technicality: Expert.1a
  • Fitness Level: Athlete
The 3rd day of backpacking. We went to Mount Douglas. This mountain is hardly ever climbed there were only 4 or 5 entries in the summit register in the last 20 years. However interestingly Douglas had visitors 2 days in a row. Apparently there was other party a day before us and they even mentioned about seeing us climbing at Lychnis Mountain.

To the bottom of Mount Douglas:
It's a long long loooong way from where we camped. We had to get up 450 m to the col then lose all getting to the mountain. After 4 hours we were still losing elevations. I won't recommend our route. Camp somewhere closer.

The ledge:
Douglas is pretty much surrounded by big cliff, finding the way up was tricky. Approaching from west aspect, we could see a path on north end of west walls (left end on page 4). This path was like a maze branched out few times, but all paths didn't go anywhere. Instead we should have tried a ledge starting right at the entrance of the maze path (Page 5). This long ledge lead us to a weakness of the cliff which we could scramble up. Still though there was somewhat narrow and certainly exposed section (page 9) and the weakness wasn't exactly easy. Be prepared for difficult scrambling on this ledge.

Upper Section:
Once clearing the weakness on the cliff, it became slogging up rock piles. However finding which way to go was not easy. I hope my pictures on page 10 and 16 helps to show where to go. We certainly made a wrong turn on upper part of this mountain.

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Interesting clouds.

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Marching a long way to Douglas.

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West face of Douglas.

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The entrance of maze path and the ledge we took. (Mouseover)

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We wasted big time in the maze trying to find a way.

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After dead ends in maze, we came back and tried the ledge. It's quite a long ledge.

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Mount Hector at far.

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Somewhat narrow part of the ledge. It was exposed and walking on the scree didn't make me feel too safe.

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Upper section of the mountain. Mouseover for which way to aim.

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Mount St. Bride. From where we came from, the ridge on the St. Bride seemed to lead to the summit, but from here clearly I can see the ridge doesn't go to the summit.

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Drummond Glacier.

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To the summit. Nothing but scree.

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Raffinator Returns (20??). Wait, that's Badman Returns. No it's Superman Returns! NOOOO IT'S BOTH!

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Pretty big mountain.

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Go where pole is pointing that includes turning to left as demonstrated by the broken tip.

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Mouseover to see how we came from and back to the col. Though I don't suggest our route. It's too far.

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This is the chimney marked by my GPS WP.

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Night is coming. Evil will rise.

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It took me 18 hours. I came back to the tent at 2 am. But next day was just hike out day, so lack of sleep wasn't problem.

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The end of summer of 2013…


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