Mount Jimmy Simpson

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Mount Jimmy Simpson
  • Location: Banff National Park (Icefields Parkway)
  • Activity: Scrambling
  • Height: 2,940 m (9,646 ft)
  • Elevation Gain: 960 m (3,150 ft)
  • Distance: 13.6 km / Loop (8.4 mi)
  • Avg Steepness: 8.0°
  • Estimated Time: 6-9 hrs
  • Technicality: Expert.2a (Due to off-route)
  • Fitness Level: Moderate
Having good weather in this spring and I was lucky enough to extend one more weekend to enjoy the blue sky.

Approach:
This is bit tricky one to figure out after arriving bedrock SW end of Bow Lake. I am pretty sure since this is in ski book, there must be easier way up, but our route was result of failure. We originally intended to go to a big gully (page 3) we could see, but we didn't aim it right and after struggling to keep going between trees due to postholing, we changed our mind and decided to go to gentle hill. However from where we were, we had to scramble up a difficult rockband in order to do so (page 4) and this is the reason why I rate this expert in my rating (difficult scrambling). If we followed the book's route it's probably easy scrambling I am assuming.

To Col:
Technically going up the slope to the col is just a hike at this point, but it is south facing, the steepness is excellent for avalanche and unnamed peak on the left holds plenty of cornices as well, so be very careful going up this slope in snow condition (page 6,8).

Summit:
After the col it was like walking at Nose Hill in Calgary without worrying about dog poo. Only the dangers we had were myself and summit cornice which we couldn't tell where it starts.

Descent:
We followed drainage which lead us to the big gully which I mentioned earlier (page 3). This gully route is really nice in terms of shorten trip distance as well as only require minor light bushwhacking from the trail. However it's steep and very very loose. The party needs to be small and need to stick together. Having little bit of snow helps especially at the top end of the gully because it was like moraine, scree was rock hard and was like 50 to 55-ish degrees.

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A lot less snow around the lake shore comparing to a week ago.

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The big gully.

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We went off-route for another difficult scramble!

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Spring is quickly arriving.

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Still lots of snow.

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Up and up.

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Lovely. I mean my ass is.

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Thompson and start seeing peaks in Wapta Icefield.

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For some reason it took me so long to go up last 15 m. Wil wasn't impressed.

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Nice view of Wapta. Mouseover for peak pointers.

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My secret weapon, crazy carpet!

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Loose loose gully.

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What a pretty color.


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