01

Stanley Peak | 2010-08-15

Stanley Peak
  • Location: Kootenay National Park
  • Activity: Scrambling
  • Height: 3,155 m (10,352 ft)
  • Elevation Gain: 1,000 m (3,281 ft)
  • Distance: 12.6 km / One Way (7.8 mi)
  • Avg Steepness: 4.5°
  • Estimated Time: 7-11 hrs
  • Technicality: Advanced
  • Fitness Level: Moderate

Above stats is from our camp spot at GR670669 to Marble Canyon. Not car-to-car stats. Please see Mount Ball trip report.

After a successful Mount Ball ascent, we camped at GR670669 . Next day, we traversed to west from the camp spot going around southwest ridge of Beatrice to southwest ridge of Stanley. Actually there are 2 southwest ridges. See page 17. The one we were is westerly one and you can see easterly one behind us. Moderate scramble route is staying on westerly one and go up scree when the ridge hits rockbands (page 6). We didn’t find any difficulties beside rockfalls from this loose scree / rubble slope.

Perhaps the most difficult part of Stanley was to find the way down to Haffner Creek from where we dropped our gear (waypoint “Drop Gear”), because there was a long drop goes across good part of entire south slope of Stanley. Route finding is a key here and unfortunately, I didn’t realize my GPS’s battery was dead, it didn’t record the track… Sorry!!. Where the line is red in the map is where I guessed how we made the way down. Basically we went as far down as we could and traversed to west passing 3 or 4 gullies like page 18. Eventually we reached a big open avalanche slope (Kane’s route) to safely descent. A tip here is not to walk on the avalanche slope though. Instead stay on vegetation slope because soil was so soft and was easy on legs (page 19).

02

Stanley Peak | 2010-08-14

Picture from previous day. This is around GR659667 (guessing). Mouseover for the approx. route from our camp spot to Stanley (GR670669).

03

Stanley Peak | 2010-08-15

My sister in law in Japan gave me these gloves. It says best condition (as in doing something well). Some reason, I felt moral boost when I wear them.

04

Stanley Peak | 2010-08-15

Coming down from a ledge to Stanley / Beatrice bowl.

05

Stanley Peak | 2010-08-15

From the camp spot, ascent of Stanley became shortened so much. Not much distance (no bushwhacking) and only 1000 m elevation gain.

06

Stanley Peak | 2010-08-15

Stay on the southeast ridge (westerly one) and zigzag upper rockbands to the summit. Mouseover for line.

07

Stanley Peak | 2010-08-15

Instead of staying on westerly southeast ridge, we switched to easterly southeast ridge and terrain became difficult scramble rather than moderate scramble… YES OFF-ROUTE SCRAMBLING!! Well actually I suggested the moderate route, but no one believed me and rejected me for two reasons I think. 1) I think they know I tend to choose more challenging route. 2) Who listen to a guy who can see imaginary person?

08

Stanley Peak | 2010-08-15

Upper part after the ridges where we had to zigzag to avoid series of small / medium size rockbands.

09

Stanley Peak | 2010-08-15

Andrea at the summit.

10

Stanley Peak | 2010-08-15

Mount Ball.

11

Stanley Peak | 2010-08-15

Vern and Andrea at the summit resting.

12

Stanley Peak | 2010-08-15

View from lower part of summit was actually better than view from the summit… Interesting. Stanley Glacier down below.

13

Stanley Peak | 2010-08-15

Now we switched our position. Me at the summit, Vern and Andrea at the lower part.

14

Stanley Peak | 2010-08-15

Now I was at west side of lower part looking at the summit… LOL.

15

Stanley Peak | 2010-08-15

We spent plenty of time at 3 summits we did this weekend. From left, Eric, Andrea, and Vern.

16

Stanley Peak | 2010-08-15

Going down.

17

Stanley Peak | 2010-08-15

Down down down…

18

Stanley Peak | 2010-08-15

From where we dropped our gear, we had to find our route because there was drops.

19

Stanley Peak | 2010-08-15

By traversing close to Kane's route we could safely descent to the world of grasswhacking planet.

20

Stanley Peak | 2010-08-15

Kane's avalanche slope route… I think.

21

Stanley Peak | 2010-08-15

At bottom it was 28 degrees. Washing and chilling at Haffner Creek was super refreshing.

22

Stanley Peak | 2010-08-15

Well that's it for this week… Actually after 2.5 hours of more grasswhacking from this point then the end.

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