01

Brazeau to Valad to Henry Macleod | 2011-09-05

Mount Brazeau
  • Location: Jasper National Park
  • Activity: Mountaineering
  • Height: 3,470 m (11,385 ft)
  • Elevation Gain: 1,220 m (4,003 ft)
  • Distance: 13.2 km / Loop (8.2 mi)
  • Avg Steepness: 10.5°
  • Estimated Time: 8-11 hrs
  • Technicality: Expert.I
  • Fitness Level: Hard

This is day 3 of Brazeau Icefield invasion trip. After evil Ben attempted to wake me up at 4:30, he failed…LOL Instead we woke up little later than we planned.

To Mount Brazeau:
Pretty much straight forward. From the campsite, walk north. Unfortunately the first job was to lose elevation from the camp and walk across a smaller glacier to the other side where dry rock leads to easier access to main Brazeau Icefield. On the dry rock, scramble up slightly to the right (east).

At Brazeau-Valad col (GR760218), we determined approach line to Brazeau’s summit was more like winter scrambling than mountaineering. Snow was shallow and towards the top rock was exposed, so we decided to un-rope from this point (page 15).

After 375 m of slogging up scree/snow slope, we were at the summit without any difficulty.

To Valad Peak:
From Brazeau-Valad col we kept continue to north ridge of Valad. Between Valad’s plateau and the north ridge, there was one rockband we had to somehow bypass (page 16). We decided to stay climber’s left on this rockband and traversed for 20 m or so along the rockband. At this point the rockband became feasible so we climbed up. However we still had to deal with a big vertical cornice in order to get on the plateau. We simply walked along the cornice towards Brazeau-Valad col until the cornice became small enough we could just straddle it. Once on the plateau, it was just hike to the summit.

To Mount Henry Macleod:
From Valad to Henry Mac was pretty much non-technical. Descent and ascent on gentle hills. Just elevation.

From the summit of Henry Mac, we backtrack little bit and took the first gully to descent. Once at flat, we walked towards our ascent trail to go back to the camp.

02

Brazeau to Valad to Henry Macleod | 2011-09-05

New day and different sunrise.

03

Brazeau to Valad to Henry Macleod | 2011-09-05

Valad Peak and Mount Brazeau.

04

Brazeau to Valad to Henry Macleod | 2011-09-05

Temperature wise it was about the same from yesterday, but the wind was cold and non-stop all day long which kept snow condition better.

05

Brazeau to Valad to Henry Macleod | 2011-09-05

To Brazeau-Valad col, we didn't have to lose elevation like when we did for Mount Warren. You can see downhill behind.

06

Brazeau to Valad to Henry Macleod | 2011-09-05

At the col.

07

Brazeau to Valad to Henry Macleod | 2011-09-05

This peak look very cool. Should have an official name!

08

Brazeau to Valad to Henry Macleod | 2011-09-05

Un-roped for south face of Brazeau.

09

Brazeau to Valad to Henry Macleod | 2011-09-05

Mount Alberta, 3619 m.

10

Brazeau to Valad to Henry Macleod | 2011-09-05

Wasn't too bad.

11

Brazeau to Valad to Henry Macleod | 2011-09-05

At the summit. Mount Warren on the left.

12

Brazeau to Valad to Henry Macleod | 2011-09-05

I met 3 creatures from Mars. Their head are bigger than humans.

13

Brazeau to Valad to Henry Macleod | 2011-09-05

More summit view.

14

Brazeau to Valad to Henry Macleod | 2011-09-05

Peaks of Columbia Icefield. Mouseover for peak pointers.

15

Brazeau to Valad to Henry Macleod | 2011-09-05

To Valad Peak. Our route to Brazeau was slightly different from the 11,000er book.

16

Brazeau to Valad to Henry Macleod | 2011-09-05

Valad Peak
  • Location: Jasper National Park
  • Activity: Mountaineering
  • Height: 3,250 m (10,663 ft)
  • Elevation Gain: 1,220 m (4,003 ft)
  • Distance: 13.2 km / Loop (8.2 mi)
  • Avg Steepness: 10.5°
  • Estimated Time: 8-11 hrs
  • Technicality: Expert.I
  • Fitness Level: Hard

There was one section which we had to stop and think about how to get pass this.

17

Brazeau to Valad to Henry Macleod | 2011-09-05

Walking along cornice for short distance in order to go around the rockband on north ridge of Valad.

18

Brazeau to Valad to Henry Macleod | 2011-09-05

Mount Henry Macleod
  • Location: Jasper National Park
  • Activity: Mountaineering
  • Height: 3,288 m (10,788 ft)
  • Elevation Gain: 1,220 m (4,003 ft)
  • Distance: 13.2 km / Loop (8.2 mi)
  • Avg Steepness: 10.5°
  • Estimated Time: 8-11 hrs
  • Technicality: Expert.I
  • Fitness Level: Hard

Suddenly I skipped Valad and already at the summit of Mount Henry Macleod.

19

Brazeau to Valad to Henry Macleod | 2011-09-05

4 peaks in 3 weeks in a row!! Awesome!!

20

Brazeau to Valad to Henry Macleod | 2011-09-05

Taking a gully for descent from Henry Mac.

21

Brazeau to Valad to Henry Macleod | 2011-09-05

Trying to find our trail…

22

Brazeau to Valad to Henry Macleod | 2011-09-05

This past winter felt like winter. This summer feels like summer. Loving it.

23

Brazeau to Valad to Henry Macleod | 2011-09-05

Our camp at the other side of this glacier.

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